Panel switch wiring

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Sunday, August 31, 2014

Installing a subwoofer in a pre fabricated enclosure

This guide will cover the installation of one or more subwoofers in a pre-fabricated enclosure. It will also cover the process of hooking up an amp to power the sub.

The easiest way to add low-end punch to your car’s stereo is to install a subwoofer. This guide will cover the installation of one or more subwoofers in a pre-fabricated enclosure. It will also cover the process of hooking up an amp to power the sub.

The first thing to do is to put the woofer into the box. This should be easy as long as you got the right size enclosure. Before actually screwing down the speaker, be sure to connect the included leads to the terminal in the back of the box. Next, screw the woofer down tight into the front of the box and mount the protective grille directly over the speaker.

Put the box in the trunk. For the best sound, the woofer should be facing the back of the car. To keep it from sliding around, consider using high-strength Velcro strips to secure it to the trunk floor. If this is not possible, L-brackets may be mounted to the cargo floor, but be sure not to put any screws through the side of the box. However you decide to secure it, make sure that it is out of the way of anything you put in the trunk.
Now it is time to install the amplifier. Begin by mounting the unit in the desired location. This should be a flat area with a lot of open space so that the amplifier can cool properly. Do not mount the amplifier on the subwoofer enclosure, as the vibrations from the speaker can damage the internal parts.

The next step is to hook the amp up to power. Before doing this, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Hook the long positive power cable for the amp to the positive terminal of the battery. If the cable does not have a fuse, you should install one inline within three feet of the battery connection. Consult the amplifier owner’s manual for the size of the fuse. Run the fused positive cable through the firewall and back into the cabin. Remove any trim panels necessary and pull back the carpet so you can run the cable underneath. Once the cable can reach the amp, trim off any excess, strip the end, and connect it to the positive power terminal of the amplifier. For the negative cable, connect it first to the amplifier, then run it beneath the cargo floor of the trunk and connect it to a ground point on the chassis or floor pan.
Next, you need to connect the amplifier to the head unit. You should do this using the subwoofer pre-amp hookup on your stereo. This can be either a stereo (paired RCA plugs) or mono (single RCA plug) connection. Unless you have a mono subwoofer amp, you will need to use a paired RCA cable to plug into the amp. If your head unit has a mono RCA out, this means you will need to use an RCA mono-to-stereo adapter to plug the stereo cable into the mono jack. Run the RCA cable underneath the carpet on the opposite side of the car from the power lines to avoid interference. When you get the cables back to the amplifier, plug them in at the RCA in terminals. Before putting the carpet and trim back, run a small 16-18 gauge wire from the head unit amp remote connection to the remote control terminal on the amplifier. At this point you can replace the carpet and trim panels to make the installation look clean.

The last step is to plug the subwoofer into the amplifier. To do this, use 12-14 gauge speaker wire. If you have a bridgeable stereo amp, you should bridge the amp by plugging the positive wire into the positive terminal for the left output and the negative wire into the negative terminal of the right output. The actual configuration of the bridge will vary from amp to amp, so read the owners manual for specific instructions. If you have a mono amp, simply connect the positive and negative wires. Finally, plug the wires into the back of the sub. If you have more than one sub, you can run a length of stereo from one sub terminal to the other.
Finally, put the negative terminal back on the battery and fire up your system. You will need to adjust the gain and filters on your amp, if it has them. First, turn on the low pass filter (LPF) option. Then, turn the gain all the way down. Turn up your stereo until the speakers begin to distort, then turn it down just a hair until it no longer distorts. With the stereo playing at this volume, turn up the gain on the amp just until the subwoofer begins to distort. At this point, turn the gain down a bit. That’s it; you’re done, and good luck with your new subwoofer.

Friday, August 22, 2014

Simple Uninterrupted Power Supply in an IC

The Uninterrupted Power Supply in an IC . Cymbet Corporation announced the availability of the EnerChip™ CC CBC3105 smart solid state battery. The CBC3105 combines the award winning EnerChip battery with integrated input power conversion, battery management and regulated output capabilities. The Cymbet EnerChip™ CC is a smart rechargeable solid state battery Uninterrupted Power Supply (UPS in a Chip™) that provides power backup to microelectronic devices when main power fails. The EnerChip CC provides power supply monitoring and switches over to the internal solid state backup battery when the supply drops below a set threshold. The EnerChip CC product family can provide anywhere from several hours to several weeks of backup time.

Simple Uninterrupted Power Supply in an IC Circuit Diagram

The CBC3105 is an ideal solution for design engineers who need a compact device to back-up a Real Time Clock or Microcontroller during power failure where coin cell batteries or super caps will not work due to size, reliability, no battery doors, no battery replacement, battery disposal issues, or need for life-of-product power. The CBC3105 uses surface mount/reflow solder assembly and is RoHS tested-compliant.

The EnerChip CC device family can accomplish all this in a footprint as small as the CBC3105 4mm x 5mm x 0.9mm package that is priced as low as $0.50 in high volumes. The EnerChip CC CBC3112 and CBC3150 provide even more energy storage in similar small footprint packages. The CBC3105 can be purchased at Avnet, Avnet Abacus, Avnet Asia, Digi-Key, Mouser and Farnell.

Easy-to-Use Evaluation Kits for Power Backup Applications

Cymbet makes it easy to design EnerChips into new products by offering two EnerChip CC evaluation kits:

CBC-EVAL-05 EnerChip CC Evaluation Kit which contains everything needed to test EnerChip 12uAh and 50uAh thin film batteries, EnerChip CC CBC3112 and CBC3150 batteries with Integrated Battery Management, and to test multiple batteries in parallel. This kit will also include a CBC3105 evaluation board for experimenting with this device.
CBC-EVAL-06 Real-Time-Clock Evaluation Kit: includes a Microcrystal NV2123 Real-Time Clock device and a CBC3112 EnerChip CC for battery backup. This kit also includes a Windows based Graphical User Interface to set the clock & test operation in RTC back up and count-down modes.

Visit Cymbet at Design West/ESC Booth 2330 for UPS in a Chip Demos

At booth 2330 at Design West/ESC 2012 at the San Jose Convention Center March 27-29, 2012, Cymbet will demonstrate tiny footprint power backup solutions that give designers the ability to create optimized products. By providing all the functions of a UPS system in a single chip, the EnerChip CC batteries enable a new class of products that utilize life-of-product energy storage.

6 Steps in Troubleshooting Vehicle Wiring Problems

The following steps will be done to troubleshoot Vehicle wiring problems issues or circuit failures. Note that you just have to be compelled prepare some tools like jumper wire, voltmeter, ohmmeter and probing tools, before do some troubleshooting on your Vehicle wiring problems issues. Here are some steps you have to perform:

Verify problems issues
Verify any connected symptoms. try this by performing operational checks on parts that are in same circuit.
Analyze the symptoms. Use the wiring diagrams to see what the circuit is doing, where the problems issues possibly is happening and where the diagnosis can continue.
Isolate problems issues area
Repair problems issues
Verify correct operation.

* Jumper wire: check wire used to connect 2 points of a circuit. It may be used to bypass an open during a circuit.

* Voltmeter: this a voltage measurement tools. Note, connect the black result in known sensible ground and red result in the positive side of the circuit.

* Ohmmeter: this a circuit’s resistance measurement tools. Note that low or no resistance during a circuit means that sensible continuity.

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Symbols used in Wiring diagram Schematics

Most of electronic schema lovers asked about electronic symbols.So today Im going to give you useful electronic symbols.I got these things from my electronic book called 100 electronic schema.I suppose this will be useful for you.

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

LCD Module in 4 bit Mode Wiring diagram Schematic

In many projects use is made of alphanumeric LCDs that are driven internally by Hitachi’s industry-standard HD44780 controller. These displays can be driven either in 4-bit or 8-bit mode. In the first case only the high nibble (D4 to D7) of the display’s data bus is used. The four unused connections still deserve some closer attention. The data lines can be used as either inputs or outputs for the display. It is well known that an unloaded output is ﬁne, but that a ﬂoating high-impedance input can cause problems. So what should you do with the four unused data lines when the display is used in 4-bit mode? This question arose when a schema was submitted to us where D0-D3 where tied directly to GND (the same applies if it was to +5 V) to stop the problem of ﬂoating inputs.

The LCD module was driven directly by a microcontroller, which was on a development board for testing various programs and I/O functions. There was a switch present for turning off the enable of the display when it wasn’t being used, but this could be forgotten during some experiments. When the R/Wline of the display is permanently tied to GND (data only goes from the microcontroller to the display) then the remaining lines can safely be connected to the supply (+ve or GND). In this application however, the R/Wline was also controlled by the microcontroller. When the display is initialised correctly then nothing much should go wrong. The data sheet for the HD44780 is not very clear as to what happens with the low nibble during initialisation.

Circuit diagram :
LCD

LCD Module in 4-bit Mode Circuit Diagram

After the power-on reset the display will always be in 8-bit mode. A simple experiment (see the accompanying schema) reveals that it is safer to use pull-down resistors to GND for the four low data lines. The data lines of the display are conﬁgured as outputs in this schema (R/Wis high) and the ‘enable’ is toggled (which can still happen, even though it is not the intention to communicate with the display). Note that in practice the RS line will also be driven by an I/O pin, and in our schema the R/W line as well. All data lines become high and it’s not certain if (and if so, for how long) the display can survive with four shorted data lines. The moral of the story is: in 4-bit mode you should always tie D0-D3 via resistors to ground or positive.

Streampowers